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"Señora Raimunda, fea de rostro buena de bunda"... life with the Moreira`s

3:38pm Tuesday 31st July 2007

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By Matthew Williams »

"Señora Raimunda, fea de rostro buena de bunda"... life with the Moreira`s


Life with the Moreira`s has been so much fun. 3 weeks of dancing, joking and living with each other has left me wanting more of them and more of Salvador, a really beautiful city with a brilliant vibe. I had been warned it was an addictive place by fellow travellers and with Keli, a weekend turned to a week, which turned to three and where I am now, Nicarauga.

My favourite times there were with the family and the night life,
perhaps complemeted with a cheeky cerveza or capairinha. Forro, Salsa and Samba (both Alto and the rather premiscuous Bajo varieties) all provided a great musical mix with the roots of
Africa dictating its style. Perhaps my favourite night was in 'Barrio
Libertade'.


It had started off a little oddly, Keli telling me "dont say anything,
they'll know your not Brasilian." Turns out we were in the heart of a Favela. I didnt bother to point out the obvious as I consciously examined my infant tan. The party was great fun, great African-Bahian rythms, some great dancing and great enthusiasm (the last one I helped supply).


While Salvador has a reputation for being dangerous, only once did I feel uncomfortable there. This was when, passing through a neighbourhood as tough as they eat their meat, our bus was bombarded with rocks. Fortunately as our heads went down, so did the drivers right foot.


Despite this one moment, Salvador has been a very welcoming place. Staying with Keli helped because her friends and family were so loving. I played footy with her cousins, celebrated Father`s day with her cousins, explored Salvador with cousins and visited museums with her cousins. She has a lot of cousins (40 at the last count). My favourite museum, in the beautiful Barrio Pelourinho, was as impressive for its view of the city as for its pictures of men with grande beards and profound moustaches.

I’m now in Nicaragua and miss the whole bunch of Malucas that I left behind. I hope to visit again soon, as to me, I hold it as dear as Sevilla.

Keli I feel is a product of her city, vibrant, colourful and beautiful... or perhaps, the city is a product of her. The way she affects people I wouldn't bet against it. Take a peek into a magical 3 weeks we spent together:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=45442&l=a4090&id=502050132

Brasil in whole reminds me of a rebel in an old Hollywood movie. Theres plenty not to like about it, the things that can happen there and do exist there. Then there is also the good side, the side that makes you alive.

However either side grapples with one another, it has an overriding charm, an unstoppable something that cements inside you and which only leaves you wanting more.


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