SIX French designers, an American and a Scot present ''jewellery
sculptures'' at the Aika Gallery in Edinburgh. All, under the name
Groupe 7, are inspired by the light, colours and landscape of Provence.
These are daring, modern designs mixing gold and silver and precious
stones as well as brass, wood, slate, crystal, quartz, amber, fossils
and even tiny ballbearings and fishing line.
''I like to use modern materials like plastic and nylon along with
stones like pink sapphire,'' says one of the designers, Alain Dubert,
who has lived in Provence for 21 years. Although some of the jewellery
looks beautiful but cumbersome to wear, Dubert insists that he and his
co-workers definitely have comfort in mind. Even one huge disc that is a
ring for two fingers is incredibly wearable. ''I tried it on
yesterday,'' says Aika's Finnish-born Anja Gardiner. ''It feels so
natural!''
This notion of ''wearable sculpture'' is slightly misleading. The
jewellery is normal sized (the largest brooch is under 10cms high) but
intricately and exquisitely made, often one-offs.
Jean Pierre Amouroux's work is especially interesting. One brooch of
gold and mother-of-pearl looks like a cityscape from Flash Gordon.
Another is a starburst with a large piece of amber in the middle. Jean
wittily names it after the sun lotion Ambre Solaire.
The jewellery is often extremely difficult to make. Converting ideas
into finished designs can be exasperating. ''We keep the psycho-analysts
in Provence busy,'' jokes Alain Dubert. ''But we think that if we are
mad enough to think up and make these things, we will find people mad
enough to buy them.''
* Prices for rings and necklaces as well as brooches which can be worn
as pendants range from under #50 to #700. Jewels of Provence can be seen
at Aika, 60 High Street, Edinburgh from today until September 4.
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